Jaws 1.23.2020

On 1.21.2020 I noticed an awesome day of big surf with no wind forecasted to arrive at Peahi: JAWS: Maui for the first time in 3years. I called my crew if #badassbigwavebithes Paige Alms, Andrea Moller and Keala Kennelly and everyone agreed it was indeed going to be ON and the strike mission began!

I packed my Jaws Boards a 9’6, 10’2 along with my inflator best, padded wetsuit, wax, fins, sunscreen and hopped on the plane to Maui 12 hours later. As the plane was landing I saw whales breaching out of the window and knew it was going to be a very special swell!

Girls update! Girls update. Glassy jaws with the girls is the best.

Since 2016 it has been my dream to get a giant jaws barrel. I will keep trying event if it takes me another 30 years! This post is meant for me to reflect and get psyched up for the next jaws swell. Maybe you’ll find it insightful too, let me know. I’m a tenacious and hard worker. All about that positive mentality and mental fortitude.

Mantra 1 : Dedicate don’t hesitate. My plan is to be in the water for as many hours possible at every jaws swell each winter (it breaks about 5x between October and March each year). This is my plan and I am fully committed.

Mantra 2 : Focus on where you’re going not where you’re at. When the wave presents itself and I’m in the spot I have a nanosecond to decide if I’m going to send it or not. We make 0% of the sends we don’t attempt. Moral of the story, assess risk, position well and if I’m in the spot I’m going to f&[email protected] send!

Mantra 3: It takes a team. When it comes to Jaws I am eternally grateful for Paige Alms, Sean Ordonez, Mocha, Andrea Moller and Keala Kennelly. Paige and Sean take care of us, from organizing logistics to making sure we’re well nourished and safe; I truly appreciate their aloha. Mocha is the best dog in the world. Endless laughs with KK and one of the most badass solidarity sisters ever, Andrea, our crew is what makes this dream stay alive. Thank you all. I love you. And many more to thank.

Next time I will catch a wave like uncle Bill Billy Big Barrel and btw I made this one below and thanks to Fred Pompermeyer for the amazing photo. Valenti’s never give up. We are hard workers and love a challenge like the illusive Jaws Barrel, until next time Jaws! I love you. Thank you for having me. Until we meet again…