To be honest: I’m a very competitive person. Mostly with myself. Because I’ve learned that what’s healthiest. I love winning. In the traditional sense of sport. I love the feeling of performing my best and beating someone at the top of their game who’s considered the best. But at the end of the day winning and losing are two sides of the same coin. And as cheesy as it sounds I really do feel that being the best version of myself is winning.
In response to the article Bruce Jenkins wrote in the SF Chronicle today : How one rivalry is pushing limits of women’s big-wave surfing at Mavericks and beyond
Tow surfing is rad and I’ve already started training, stoked! Since Keala Kennelly’s historical ride in 2016 at Teaahupo’o in Tahiti and Maya’s 2020 world record setting biggest wave at Nazare in Portugal I continue to be in awe of the level of tow surfing and I’m excited to join the party! Congratulations to Justine for her insanely amazing tow waves this year. Thanks for getting me even more fired up!
I am honored to be regarded as a pioneer and trail blazer in womens big wave surfing not only for my performance but for my contributions to creating equality, opportunity and access for women. Focusing on performance is much more fun than fighting for equity. But surely there will be battles ahead. And I will continue to fight the good fight. It does however feel like there is a light at the end of the tunnel, thankfully. And I feel very proud to say that I am both a champion and a change-maker. We are winning!!